Ambiance: *****
Food: *****
Service: *****
Value: ****
Smugglers Steak and Seafood Grill: Renaissance Grand Beach Hotel. Tue.-Sat. Dinner 6-10 p.m. Brunch Sun. 10:30-2:30 p.m. Steak, seafood. $$$ All cards. 775-1510.
What's at the end of the red brick road? Smugglers Steak and Seafood Grill if you are on the Renaissance Grand Beach Hotel property. There are two major eating establishments at RGBH, one on the beach and Smugglers at the back of the property next to the ballroom.
The special thing about Smugglers, through October, is their generous 20 percent discount to local diners. Since their menu is on the expensive end, which is a reflection on the quality of their establishment and their food, this discount allows residents to sample luxury on a medium budget. The facility is most roomy, the kitchen is on display to one and all, and the pianist provided that most important touch of elegance.
The tablecloths, napkins, service ware, and table arrangements let you know you are should expect a first class experience. While some may question the salad bar, it is a selection of succulent and piquant items displayed to allow for personal attention. I for one, really enjoy the hearts of palm with a touch of anchovy flavored olive oil, as well as a dash of crushed walnut to set off my Champaign dressing. Furthermore, having experienced a great deal of European dining where salad follows the main course, I like the option to sample both sides of the coin with a small salad antipasto and another salad post entre.
The wine list is extensive, while a bit expensive, but the discount brings things into a better perspective. The meal definitely calls for wine, and even the least expensive wine on the list is better than adequate. The bar is most roomy and the selection of spirits appears endless. Whether you prefer the latest creamy concoction or icy frappe, it is available with a flourish.
The wait staff is all mature professionals who do indeed anticipate your every need. Since the toilets are actually outside the dining area and also serve the ballroom, friendly staff quickly orients guests who appear quizzical. The toilets are roomy, well stocked with all necessities and clean.
My fresh tuna was cooked just a tad too much. It was still moist, but not as moist as I personally prefer. Next time I will advise the waiter that I like my fish quickly seared. The tuna is offered with a choice of several sauces. While the mango sauce was tempting, I opted for the lemon/ butter and was most pleased with the result.
You are offered several potatoes including baked and boiled new potatoes. The new potatoes were cooked just right; firm without being hard. The assorted squash, broccoli and carrot slices were crisp and flamed which left a most pleasant flavor. Our water glasses were filled from the moment we sat down, the flavor of the water was quite good, and there was no pressure to purchase designer water.
Dessert was a collection of cakes, cheesecake, lime pie, and a most interesting Bavarian. The coffee was most flavorful providing an excellent complement to the dessert If you are willing to spend some $30 for drink, entre and tip; you will be rewarded with a most delightful evening of good food in a most relaxing environment.
Editor's note: The Tottering Taster is a Senior Citizen dedicated to enjoying good food. He will dine in one local establishment a week and bring you a totally unsolicited assessment biased in favor of an ultimate experience. We are using a pseudonym so restaurateurs will not be able to identify the reviewer and try to influence the review.