There are the Hawaiian Islands, and then there is the island of Hawaii itself. Hawaii is the largest of the chain and constantly getting bigger as molten lava oozes up out of earth's core and flows into the sea.
In the early days, the islands depended on the sea for transport of goods and people. The best port on Hawaii was on the north side and the city of Hilo developed. When airplanes began flying between the islands, the first airport on Hawaii was built outside the major town.
The southern coast, or Kona coast, is known for coffee bushes, lava fields, and spectacular beaches. When tourism and retirement living became major industries and a hurricane flooded much of Hilo, attention turned to Kona. A lava field along the Kona coast became an international airport, and hotel and condominium development sprouted along the beaches.
Since we were new to the area, we decided to attend an "orientation breakfast." While the Kona coffee, pineapple juice, mini-muffins, and fruit plate were quite good, the event was a come-on to attend a "vacation club" presentation. We decided "in for a penny, in for a pound" and paid our dues with two hours of high-pressure sales pitches.
Finally we earned the right to purchase luaus and a flight around the island at half-price. The real treat turned out to be the young Hawaiian lady who booked our reservations. She was a delight to talk to and became totally focused on helping us maximize our Kona experience. For the afternoon she suggested we pick up lunch at a nearby supermarket and drive south to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau or "place of refuge at Honaunau."
This peninsula was both a king's beach house and a refuge for vanquished warriors and kapu (taboo) breakers. One kapu was walking in the king's footsteps. The penalty for this infraction was death and the only salvation was to reach the refuge before capture. There, following a purification ritual, the kapu breaker could return to the community cleansed of all transgression.
This National Historic Park is very well maintained, has a fine collection of artifacts and reproductions and an excellent adjacent beach for picnicking and swimming in lava rock pools.
Our two luaus were similar in style and food, but differed in taste and show theme. One presentation began with a sampling of "native" handcraft demonstrations and a "royal" landing and parade of King, Queen, Chief Advisor, Guardian and Messenger blowing the conch horn to announce the royal coming.
Both luaus had tables of Mai Tais and fruit punch with a supplemental open bar. The food was a massive collection of raw fish such as lomi salmon, salads, coconut and banana based Polynesian specialties such as haupia (coconut pudding). They included kalua pig wrapped in ti leaves and roasted all day in an imu, laulau pork, poi with fish in tara leaves, and range beef.
The shows were collections of songs and dances from an assortment of Polynesian islands. The costumes were colorful, the music ranged from seductive to rambunctious, and the dancers thoroughly into their craft. With the discounts we received a full evening of food and entertainment for the price of an average restaurant meal.
Over the years we have found nothing beats a bird's eye view of the countryside. I gave up rental cars after a trip through Wales where I saw nothing beyond the confines of the busy, narrow, twisting roads. Local buses are great for inexpensive orientation to main thoroughfares. Helicopters are great flying close to the ground, but are very expensive. Our discounted flight of 2-1/2 hours for $200 with a pilot/guide gave us a fantastic view at an affordable price.
Our pilot took off on an early morning flight to beat the VOG – volcanic smog. Even so, we were not able to see the tops of Mauna Loa or Mauna Kea, which are almost perpetually shrouded in fog and smoke.
Even so, we were constantly amazed at the ever-changing environments, from the lush Kona slopes to the barren lava fields; steaming lava fissures; modern homes touching fresh, cooling lava; the macadamia nut orchards and orchid farms around Hilo, the waterfall-laced cliffs along the north coast and Kohale mountain range; the grasslands of the Parker Ranch and the jewel-like hotels along the Queen Kaahumanu Highway.
One most interesting feature in Hawaii is the King's Highway. This "road" was built around each island so the king could be transported between villages on his annual trek. Flying over the lava flows, you can see this historic road meandering across the landscape, interrupted here and there by recent flows.
We spent one day at the Hilton Waikoloa Village visiting the marine research and education center. This must be one of the most spectacular hotels in the world. You enter the 62 acre-plus grounds via a gigantic reception area that leads to a monorail boat canal and grand staircase. Both the air-conditioned monorail and the motorboats carry you along similar routes to the various buildings which house seven major restaurants and more than a thousand rooms and suites. Along the way you are treated to picturesque views and rare birds.
The three-story grand staircase leads you down to the four-acre lagoon. One end of the lagoon is reserved for the dolphin institute, while the majority is open to swimming, snorkeling, and canoeing with a sand bottom, assorted artifacts and live turtles breaking the monotony. The walkways to the various buildings are billed as "museum walks" as they are lined with antiques and reproductions.
About a dozen dolphins live at the institute where you can signup to actually interact with these wonderful mammals in groups of four individuals per dolphin. Children may make reservations up to two months in advance, but adults must enter a lottery. The interaction lasts about an hour and takes place from four to five times a day. We spent well over two hours simply watching these marvelous animals at play.
Our final activity was a trip to the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority, which is the Hawaiian version of our St. Croix up-dwelling project. The difference is the fact the University of Hawaii took bull by the horns and has made their project a commercial success. More than 14 ventures produce such products as pearls, lobster, seaweed, abalone, agricultural products and food supplements.
One 40-acre aquafarm produces abalone for the table; while another produces strawberries, asparagus, artichokes, basil and gourmet lettuce. Cyanotech Corp. produces beta carotene, while High Health Aquaculture and Kona Bay Oyster and Shrimp Company produce pathogen-free shrimp. Kona Cold Lobster Ltd has managed to decrease lobster maturity time from 7 to 3 years and raise them in a stress-free environment that produces a perfect lobster-the same technology we have given lip service to on St. Croix for some thirty years.
Kona is a prime example of what can be done by people who put race behind them and concentrate on meaningful productivity.
VI Source Archive · 1998–2015