Home Lifestyles Food and Wine TROPICALIA SCORES HIGH FOR FOOD AND AMBIENCE

TROPICALIA SCORES HIGH FOR FOOD AND AMBIENCE

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Feb. 20, 2002 – The stomach was rumbling and we were looking for something different for dinner. We had been to what used to be called the Magens Point Hotel back when it was brand new, and now and then thereafter, but not for a long time. Since the island is always in a state of flux, we decided it was time to revisit what's now Magens Point Resort and check out Tropicalia.
Good decision.
For openers, the scenics are superb. You can dine at the side of the swimming pool with Magens Bay in the distance. The hillside has become a nighttime fairyland of lights, and a full moon makes the whole panorama picture perfect.
There were a few locals enjoying the pool table at the bar across from the pool, but their merriment didn't carry to the dining area. We had our choice of poolside, inside or in-between. We also had our choice of a table by candlelight or candlelight supplemented with soft overhead illumination. Finally, this is a real sleeper: The madding crowd is not here, and there are plenty of tables, enabling companions to enjoy their meal and each other with only the gentle attentions of the wait person and owner/chef.
The dinner menu is relatively simple, with good choices among native, continental (in the sense of U.S.) and international cuisine. We tried the conch in butter sauce and a creamed fettuccini with shrimp cooked in lobster bisque. The conch was tender, the onion was succulent and the sauce was meant to be lavished on rice and sopped up with bread. In fact, the rice had such a good character that it stood on its own, leaving plenty of sauce for sopping.
The vegetables were a nice mix of squash and broccoli flashed to perfection, leaving a crunching product that was perfection either alone or lightly coated with conch butter sauce or the most mouthwatering cream of lobster bisque. Just thinking about them makes my taste buds get in gear.
The accompanying house salad was a nice mixture of greens with chunks of bell pepper. The salad dressing was served in a cup, allowing us to gauge how much or how little we wanted to use. This is something I appreciate, as I have grown to despise salads drenched in someone else's idea of an appropriate dressing which, however good it happens to be, becomes the death of the very greens it is supposed to complement.
The bread was tender with just enough crust to let you know the chef passed Advanced Breads 202 with flying colors. Spread with a taste of butter it did an excellent job complementing the salad and an outstanding job soaking up the conch sauce and cleaning my plate of the really mouth-watering lobster bisque cream.
Tropicalia has a good wine list, but we weren't in the mood, with light beers providing the palate cleansing.
The restrooms, which serve both the dining area and the bar, are spacious and clean.
There is ample parking on the property, but on a busy night you may be in for a bit of a stroll. The good news is the property is well landscaped and you will enjoy your stroll.
Tropicalia
Ambience: 4 stars
Food: 4 stars
Service: 4 stars
Value: 5 stars
Magens Point Resort, junction of Mahogany Run and Magens Bay roads
(340) 777-6678
Dinner 6-10 p.m. daily
Live music Friday until 1 a.m.
Amex, MasterCard, Visa
Editor's note: The Tottering Taster is a senior citizen dedicated to enjoying good food who periodically dines in local establishments to bring Source readers unsolicited assessments biased in favor of an ultimate eating-out experience. The individual uses a pseudonym so restaurant personnel will not be able to identify the reviewer and try to influence the review.

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