If you are an island resident looking for a good way to introduce visitors to Caribbean cooking, or simply want to tackle some snapper you didn't have to clean yourself, Sandra's Terrace is one of the better places on the island to do it.
The ambience is definitely Caribbean, there is plenty of well-lighted parking, and the staff makes you feel like part of the family – a loving family.
For several decades, when it comes to eating Caribbean food, I have given most of my attention to two Virgin Island establishments. They have stood the test of time and rate 5 stars in my personal book. Unfortunately, I know that many people, for one reason or another, might be uncomfortable trying them or taking guests to them.
Fortunately, for these folks, Sandra's is one of a few other "local cuisine" establishments that cater to the taxi crowd, producing food that is genre specific, if not something you would be proud to feed good friends knowledgeable about food. These establishments are most popular with group pig-outs, and I have been known to belly up to the trough with the best of them.
Sandra's – which is the former Eunice's Terrace on Smith Bay Road — has the potential for a good group bash, but the food I tasted with my companion recently met the standards of a quality restaurant. There are separate menus for lunch and dinner. Both have sections for serious eaters and menus for children. They aim to please.
Our first course was a garden salad – iceberg lettuce, carrot and tomato. Not exciting, but adequate. The ingredients were fresh and crispy, served with a side of dressing so you could use as much or as little as you liked. While I have seen many methods of delivering the dressing, this was the first time I ever got it in a squat glass boat that contained about four tablespoonsful, more than adequate for almost anyone's taste. (If there is one thing I dislike in salads, it is dressing overkill. The sauce is there to dress, to complement and compliment the greens. Those who turn their salad into a swamp of oil, spices and wilted greens destroy their dinner from the onset.)
Sandra's dressing seemed to be a commercial brand Italian. That is fine, but I would have preferred it in the original bottle. Somehow, the boat didn't make it with me. My companion, on the other hand, thought it was a definite bright spot. Bottom line: We each controlled how much dressing went on our salads, and the dinner was off to a good start.
The bread basket held four long slices of a round loaf on the light side. The bread had been buttered, garnished with herbs and toasted in a sandwich press. It was served piping hot and complimented both my beer and the salad. Later, it also provided an acceptable medium with which to sop up my fish/vegetable juices/pepper sauce "soup" when I was of a mind to lick my plate.
Both of us decided we needed a boiled fish fix and went for it. The fish was well spiced with a distinct pepper flavor. A mound of fungi, slice of tania, slice of plantain and medley of vegetables accompanied the entree.
After eating half of the fish straight, I asked for the house pepper sauce – which came in another squat glass boat. After a test lick, I emptied the entire contents over my fish, fungi, veggies and tania. Heaven!
The vinegar-based sauce was well spiced with Caribbean peppers and garlic, lending a wonderful compliment to my fish and assorted accouterments. After cleaning my plate of food, I went back to the bread basket and found the wherewithall to sop the platter clean. All the French, Italian and American nouveau cuisine notwithstanding, nothing beats a West Indian platter of boiled fish with a good pepper sauce. This is real living!
For dessert there was a good selection of cheesecake, carrot cake and apple pie, but I simply did not want to lose the aftertaste of my fish dinner and pepper sauce.
Sandra's facilities are well kept, and the restaurant is airy, precluding the need for stifling air-conditioning. The staff is cheerful and colorfully attired, making you feel right at home with your eating. If there is one dull spot, it is the plastic covering on the tables. Give me a tablecloth, or even bare wood — but no plastic, please. Otherwise, full marks.
(Sandra's was a participant in Rotary East's 2000 Dine Out restaurant coupon book program. The 2001 program will begin in mid-year. Coupon book purchases benefit a scholarship program for V.I. youths, while providing purchasers an incentive to try many of the better restaurants on St. Thomas and St. John: a free second entree, drink or dessert, depending on the establishment. (For details, scroll down in this section of the Source to see the earlier story titled "Coupon book lets you eat well while doing good.")
Sandra's Terrace
Ambience: 4 stars
Food: 3 stars
Service: 4 stars
Value: 4 stars
Smith Bay Road east of Renaissance Grand Beach Resort entrance
775-2699
Lunch daily except Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.Dinner nightly 6-10 p.m.
Caribbean and American cuisine
Amex, Visa, MasterCard

Editor's note: The Tottering Taster is a senior citizen dedicated to enjoying good food who dines in local establishments to bring Source readers unsolicited assessments biased in favor of an ultimate eating-out experience. The individual uses a pseudonym so restaurant personnel will not be able to identify the reviewer and try to influence the review.